A move to Birmingham from Beijing lets this fine British chef show off his robust talents

Yikouchi at Chancer’s Café, 1418 Pershore Road, Stirchley, Birmingham B30 2PH. No booking. All dishes £3.50-£9. Beers and wines from £4 a glass

Yikouchi in Birmingham is a love letter. It is a sweet account of a young English couple’s interesting journey through life so far, served up one clamorous dish at a time. It’s an utter joy. Yikouchi, roughly pronounced ee-koh-chuh, is the beginning of an idiomatic Chinese saying that means “One mouthful won’t make you fat.” No, one mouthful won’t. But who wants just one mouthful when the food is this good?

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