Closure of ‘world’s best restaurant’ raises questions over future of such rarefied – and expensive – fine dining establishments

If what tickles your tastebuds for supper is duck brain served in the skull, edible pine cones, sweetbreads in reindeer moss and dried plum and pheasant heart followed by a berry-leather and black-garlic beetle, you’d better get a move on.

Noma, the fine-dining restaurant in Copenhagen on whose winter “game and forest” menu (it also does vegetable and seafood seasons) those delicacies feature, is closing at the end of next year, and the waiting list for tables is very long.

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