In Australia, households not in-the-know might give or receive sub-par panettone at Christmas. But if we learn to choose a good panettone, can this festive fruit bread’s reputation be redeemed?

In Italy, it’s not really Christmas unless there’s a panettone. But in many Australian households, this sweet, dome-shaped bread receives much less fanfare: it stays on shelves well past the season, or is given and regifted until it passes its use-by date.

Tuscan-based food writer Emiko Davies says it’s a “must-have Christmas tradition” all around Italy – stacked high in bakeries from late November, ready to be given to friends, neighbours and party hosts. So loved is this traditional Milanese bread that Davies says it has gone beyond its staple filling of candied fruits and sultanas to variations stuffed with gelato, studded with chocolate chips or filled with hazelnut, chocolate or pistachio creams.

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