Dining in Cardiff has been reformed, as an exceptional lunch at the Heathcock demonstrates

The Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge Street, Cardiff CF5 2EN (029 2115 2290). Lunch £7-£13, mains (evenings) £15-£24, desserts £7-£8.90, wines from £19

On a slow news day in the summer of 2016, I became the subject of headlines for giving a Cardiff restaurant a good review. To be fair, it was less the nice things I said about the Classroom, which is staffed by catering students at Cardiff and Vale College, than my assertion that it was a boon to the Welsh capital because the city was short on great eating options. I’d liked both the Potted Pig and Purple Poppadom, basically anywhere beginning with the letter P, but after that, choice had seemed limited.

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