Unimpressed by a novelty hanging kebab, Jay Rayner owns up to being a food snob when it comes to novelty dishes
The Botanist, 13 St Werburgh Street, Chester CH1 2DY and locations nationwide. Starters £6.95-£9.50, mains £13.75-£23.95, desserts £7.75, wines from £24.95
Being an insufferable snob is exhausting. It’s not the volume of stuff that warrants the eye-rolling or the weary sighs that take it out of you. That’s figurative and sometimes literal meat and potatoes to the restaurant critic. It’s the deep, abiding sense of impotence. For here I sit in the Chester branch of the Botanist, amid the carefully selected vintage farm implements and the distressed picture frames, staring at one of their hanging kebabs. According to the menu these are “famous”. They are certainly popular. Almost every table has ordered one.
