Brilliant beaches, wildflower-strewn cliffs, pilgrim routes and sea life are among the highlights of this spectacular hike in Wales’s far north-west

Porth Neigwl beach, between the craggy headlands of Mynydd Rhiw and Mynydd Cilan at the end of north Wales’s Llŷn peninsula, is known as Hell’s Mouth, because locals once used its rough waters as a “trapping bay”, luring ships into it then murdering their crews and stealing their cargo. I feel quite safe there today, though, as I climb over grassy dunes and across the soft clifftops of boulder clay, remnants of the last ice age.

I’m walking around the peninsula on one of the lesser-known sections of the Wales Coast Path – which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year – basing myself in the fishing village of Aberdaron.

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