With Gabriela Hearst showcasing women activists and heroes, and Stuart Vevers reworking old leather into neo-noir homages, this was a very relevant NYFW

Three months after the US supreme court’s decision to reverse Roe v Wade, removing the constitutional right to a legal abortion that held for nearly half a century, the New York designer Gabriela Hearst took to New York fashion week to “statement-cast” Cecile Richards, a former president of Planned Parenthood, on her spring catwalk.

This fashion week is the first since the June decision, and on Tuesday afternoon, wearing a black double-breasted coat with rose gold bars flecked along the lapel, the women’s rights activist was among 50-strong “goddesses and warriors”, who included teenage climate campaigner Xiye Bastida and amputee model and activist Lauren Wasser.

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