EASY MEAT Butterflied lamb chops cook quickly and evenly. They make this impressive recipe surprisingly low stress.

Photo: JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI

The Chef: Meherwan Irani

Illustration: Michael Hoeweler

His Restaurants: Chai Pani, in Asheville, N.C., and Decatur, Ga.; Botiwalla, in Charlotte, N.C., and Atlanta; Buxton Hall Barbecue and Buxton Chicken Palace, both in Asheville; Nani’s Rotisserie Chicken, in Asheville and, soon, Atlanta.

What He’s Known For: Fresh takes on Indian street food. A growing collection of restaurants ranging from inventive Indian cooking to Eastern-Carolina-style BBQ.

COOKING AT THE PLACE where cultures overlap comes naturally to chef Meherwan Irani. “My whole family is from a small town outside Mumbai,” he said. “There was an ashram there for a spiritual master, and my grandmother ran the equivalent of a bed-and-breakfast for Westerners.” His mother cooked for the travelers, catering to their palates. Mr. Irani grew up eating Indian-Western fusion and he loved it. “My mom became a remarkable cook, blending the best of both worlds,” he said. “She didn’t dumb anything down.”

Now based in Asheville, N.C., Mr. Irani owns seven restaurants across the American South, the latest of which, Buxton Chicken Palace, opened in Asheville last week. In his first Slow Food Fast recipe, quick-cooking butterflied lamb chops bring South Asian street food to the American cookout.

The meat gets a rub of garlic, ginger, turmeric, chile powder and tandoori spice blend. (If you don’t have this blend on hand, mix up equal parts ground cumin, garam masala, turmeric, fenugreek and chile powder.) On the grill the punchy rub quickly forms a crisp crust; pull the chops off the heat while their interior remains rosy pink.

Raita, the cooling yogurt sauce thick with cucumber and tomato, tempers the spiced lamb’s heat. And grilled flatbreads come in handy for swiping up all the savory, seasoned juices left behind once the lamb’s been devoured.

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The meat gets a rub of garlic, ginger, turmeric, chile powder and tandoori spice blend. (If you don’t have this blend on hand, mix up equal parts ground cumin, garam masala, turmeric, fenugreek and chile powder.) On the grill the punchy rub quickly forms a crisp crust; pull the chops off the heat while their interior remains rosy pink. Raita, the cooling yogurt sauce thick with cucumber and tomato, tempers the spiced lamb’s heat. And grilled flatbreads come in handy for swiping up all the savory, seasoned juices left behind once the lamb’s been devoured.

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI

Ingredients

  • 1½ tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1½ tablespoon minced ginger
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 2 tablespoons white vinegar
  • ½ tablespoon Kashmiri chile powder or cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon tandoori spice blend
  • 12 butterflied lamb chops
  • 2 cups full-fat yogurt
  • 2 tablespoons milk
  • ¼ cup minced tomatoes
  • ¼ cup minced cucumbers
  • 2 tablespoons minced mint
  • Pinch sugar
  • Grilled flatbreads, for serving

Directions

  1. Pre-heat a grill to medium-high. With an oiled cloth, rub the grate until it glistens.
  2. Make the rub: In a small food processor, blend garlic and ginger to form a paste. Blend in lime juice, vinegar, chile powder, turmeric, a pinch of salt and tandoori spice blend. Apply rub all over lamb chops, coating the meat evenly.
  3. Grill lamb chops, turning once, until exterior browns in spots, about 2 minutes per side for medium-rare. Set grilled lamb aside to rest.
  4. Make the raita: In a medium bowl, mix yogurt with milk, tomatoes, cucumber and mint until combined. Season with salt and sugar to taste. Serve lamb chops alongside raita and warm flatbreads.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

Share your experience with this recipe. Did you make any adaptations? How did you serve it? Join the conversation below.

—Kitty Greenwald is a chef, food writer and the co-author of ‘Slow Fires’ (Clarkson Potter)

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