There’s no chummy mission statement about being kind to pigs or saving us from cow farts
Until recently, Mildreds had a niche appeal: meat-free and going strong since 1988, but not exactly mainstream. Your average diner liked vegetables, sure, but preferred them with a lovely steak. Or even a not particularly lovely steak, such as the ones served at the Covent Garden Angus Steakhouse, where tourists flocked for the 12oz ribeye and the Carolina chunky chips smothered in cheese and crisp bacon. Or at least they did until it was closed and replaced by a new and very busy branch of Mildreds.
Interestingly, the Burger King on nearby Leicester Square also turned vegan for a month this year, serving plant-based Whoppers to constant queues. Plants, it seems, are coming for us all, although anyone who has seen The Day of the Triffids would be under no illusions about any of this.
