A big new space in Wembley serving a terrific range of Indian dishes has it all to play for

Masalchi by Atul Kochhar, 2 Wembley Park Blvd, Wembley HA9 0HP (020 8634 8181). Half plates £4-£7.50; large plates £6-£14; desserts £4.50; wines from £24; cobra beer £6.50 a pint

In the middle of October, the Indian chef Atul Kochhar opened a massively spendy and also quite simply massive restaurant called Mathura, inside what was formerly the Westminster fire station. It offers a tasting menu at £110 or an à la carte with starters at around £20 each. Many of the main courses are more than £40, including a wagyu fillet with 24ct gold leaf at £85 because, as we know, sigh, eating gold leaf is a thing. These days the only fires to be dealt with by this building are credit cards spontaneously combusting.

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