Head to Hackney for a cheerful vibe and top Chinese cooking

Lucky & Joy, 95 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 (020 8617 8100). Snacks £3.50-£6.50, larger dishes £6-£14, dessert £5, wine from £24

A lunchtime in the first blush of the new normal and I am in a Hackney restaurant called Lucky & Joy. It feels like the right place to be. I know how lucky I am personally, and God knows we could all do with some joy. Generally, the Chinese use the two words together to mean “double happiness”. I appreciate the sentiment. But Lucky & Joy also represents innovation in the restaurant world that’s far from the shiny big-ticket launches that get the attention. It deserves a moment in the spotlight.

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