The borderless southeast Asian food at Ka Pao in Edinburgh is amazingly appetising (but sadly its location isn’t)

Ka Pao, Unit 420, St James Quarter, Edinburgh EH1 3AE (0131 385 1040). Snacks and small plates £3.50-£10.50, big plates £7.50-£14.50, desserts £4.50-£6, wines from £25

Can you enjoy a good meal in a bad building? Especially if you know that the building has been nicknamed “the dog turd” by many in the city? That’s not exactly an aid to the digestion, is it? Let’s get specific. Can you enjoy a meal at Ka Pao, a boldly eclectic southeast Asian bistro where they thrill you with big flavours and thrill you again, when it’s located inside a shopping centre like Edinburgh’s St James Quarter?

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