The world is awash with products flavoured like the festive feast, whether you fancy turkey in your gyoza or on your pizza. Are any actually nice to eat?
Something has gone badly, wildly wrong in the world of Christmas cuisine. Where Christmas dinner used to be a once-a-year extravagance, the concept has become nebulous and all-encompassing. “Christmas dinner” is no longer a meal – it is a flavour, spread indiscriminately across every foodstuff imaginable in a desperate bid to seize upon good cheer.
There have long been Christmas dinner sandwiches, but now we also have Christmas dinner crisps, Christmas dinner pizza, Christmas dinner pasties, Christmas dinner soup. And, while the thought of someone sullenly microwaving a bowl of Christmas soup barefoot in their kitchen between Zoom calls on a Thursday in November is genuinely the most dispiriting thing you could think of, it is possible that some of these products are actually good. There’s only one thing for it: time to put on a novelty jumper and try them all at once.
