After the doctor told me my cholesterol levels had gone through the roof during lockdown, it was the only thing that worked

It’s called “health bread,” “fitness bread”, or sometimes, “muesli bread”, but in our house, we call it “misery bread,” on account of its sour taste and unwelcoming texture – it has roughly the shape and density of an insole. It costs, incredibly, $3.99 (£3) for five slices and a single slice contains 11g of fibre, or 40% of your recommended daily intake. I have been on this stuff since January and, after the results of a blood test last week, intend to talk about it for the rest of my life.

Nascent studies into nutrition and lifestyle trends since March 2020 confirm what many of us already knew: that as well as stress and lethargy, part of the experience of lockdown was less exercise, more snacks and more frequent meals. Food was the only obvious pleasure and release. My grocery bill doubled. I put away family-size packs of Cheetos. We ordered a McDonald’s delivery, then ordered it again. It felt like a challenge; if I can’t go anywhere or see anyone, I will work my way through the world’s unhealthiest foods with the grim determination of someone clearing a bucket list.

Emma Brockes is a Guardian columnist

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