His death last year at 41 left a chasm in the industry. In a new BBC documentary, director Cassie Quarless explores the legacy of one of the most important – and controversial – designers of the 21st century

‘There is a whole generation of Black people who went and bought their first sewing machine because of Virgil,” says the fashion critic Bliss Foster. “He saw what was happening before anyone else,” adds the DJ and producer Honey Dijon. And yet, according to the activist Trinice McNally, “a lot of people hated him”.

Louis Vuitton director Virgil Abloh certainly left a chasm in the fashion industry when he died last year at just 41. Founder of the beloved brand Off-White – worn by everyone from the Kardashians to kids in Croydon – and creative director for Kanye West, Abloh was one of the most important designers of the 21st century.

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