Jonathan Nunn steers clear of the upmarket eateries beloved by critics. Instead, in his latest book, he edits a collection of essays about London’s overlooked places
‘I always get nervous when people ask me to choose a restaurant, because I know deep down it’s a test,” says the food writer and editor Jonathan Nunn. We’re meeting for lunch to discuss London Feeds Itself, a collection of essays exploring the spaces where Londoners eat, and I have asked Nunn, the collection’s editor, to suggest where.
He’s right: it is a test. I want to see if the 33-year-old’s reputation as a champion of good-value eateries is a match for King’s Cross, the area of central London where the Guardian has its offices and the average house price is £850,000. Just a week earlier, I went halves on a £15 sandwich here, hoping it would be a) the best sandwich ever or b) massive. Reader, it was neither.
