Low-cost supermarkets have gone upmarket, selling fancy scallop gratins and passionfruit panna cottas at tempting prices. But are they any good?

We live in a world where the main message of Christmas is “spend, spend, spend”, and where festivity has become synonymous with luxury – but you shouldn’t have to bankrupt yourself to have a good time. Helpfully, the more budget-conscious retailers have pushed the boat out this year, hoping to lure customers away from their upmarket competitors with golden fish and gargantuan toffee crowns. With food prices rising at record rates, they’re likely to be an attractive option for many of us. But what’s worth spending your hard-earned cash on … and what’s best left on the shelf?

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