The brand was launched last year by influencers Logan Paul and KSI, and has ridden a wave of controversy to generate $250m of sales. Ultraprocessed and unpalatable – what is its secret?

A few weeks ago, in Christchurch, New Zealand, George Woodgate got a parcel from the other side of the world. Specifically from his Auntie Lisa, in north Devon. First out of the package was a Manchester United shirt. That was pretty cool – George is mad about football. But it was nothing compared with what came out next: a bottle of Prime Hydration, blue raspberry flavour.

“I was excited,” says George, not sounding that excited, but then George is a shy 11-year-old boy and this is his first international media interview. We’re talking on a video call, morning to evening, summer to winter.

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