Baggy Women’s Suits Are the New Sweats—Really

Designers realize that, after a year in loungewear, women are loath to abandon comfort. So this spring, brands from Stella McCartney and the Row to Brunello Cucinelli and Max Mara strategically proposed louche suits so relaxed, they might as well be PJs. “An oversize suit is…the perfect transition from what we’ve been forced to wear in the last year,” said New York stylist Emma Jade Morrison. “They’re just as easy to wear as a sweatsuit.” Treat them unpreciously, she urges: Try one with a T-shirt and sneakers for errands or a brisk walk (as her client model Emily Ratajkowski does).

Lily Snyder, 37, a New York art adviser, succumbed to sweats during the pandemic, but is excited to reacquaint herself with her wardrobe of generous suits by labels like Paul Smith and Bottega Veneta. Ms. Snyder appreciates that some women don’t want to be constricted by dresses or blistered by high-heels again. “But my [suits] aren’t binding. They make me feel great…like my true and best self.” She often wears her ample ensembles with a collared shirt, platform shoes and cuff links.

“Style and comfort don’t need to be mutually exclusive anymore,” said Lisa Aiken, the New York-based buying and fashion director of e-commerce site Moda Operandi. Interest in breezy tailoring by brands like Jacquemus and Altuzarra has ticked up, she’s noticed lately.

Once upon a time, this comfort-style combo didn’t seem so surprising. In the mid-19th century, lightweight wool suiting became the male leisurewear of choice, said Dr. Chris Breward, director of National Museums Scotland. Only in the early 20th century did suits get stigmatized by stiff, office associations. From the 1860s on, wool “lounge suits” were considered ideal for, as Dr. Breward put it, “country pursuits” like Saturday woodland walks, hunting, fishing and even sprawling on the beach. “They were much more informal garments.” Eventually the style was controversially appropriated by such trailblazing women as Marlene Dietrich, pictured here posing in a subversively untrim suit in the 1930s.

Some modern adherents are bringing slouchy suits back to their casual roots. JiaJia Fei, a 34-year-old digital strategist in Brooklyn, bikes to work in her bright, monochromatic versions. To walk her “giant” dog in Los Angeles, Cassandra Grey, the founder and CEO of beauty retailer Violet Grey, wears one of her eight loose suits from brands like the Row with cream Air Jordans and a sweatshirt. “If you just buy a few suits, you can make a whole uniform and never have to worry about clothes again,” said Ms. Grey, 43, who sometimes wears hers with a men’s button-down or even just a bra.

Wardrobes anchored in tailoring are New York designer Marina Moscone’s specialty. “People want to collect a great suit—they don’t want to buy six average things,” she said. “And you can take the suit and make six outfits out of it.” One day earlier this month, Ms. Moscone paired her tuxedo trousers with a sweater and Nike Air Force 1s; the next, she wore the full suit around town.

To avoid comparisons to Talking Heads frontman David Byrne, who wriggled in an absurdly roomy suit in the 1984 concert film, “Stop Making Sense,” Ms. Moscone insists your jacket’s shoulders must fit “amazingly.” Ms. Fei precisely calibrates her sleeve and pant lengths, but doesn’t mind a billowing blazer. “I’ve definitely worn suits that are too big,” she said. “But as long as they’re comfortable, it still feels like the right fit.” Ms. Morrison, the stylist, said showing a scintilla of skin can soften the look. “Maybe you don’t wear anything underneath and your clavicle shows.” She suggested more modest women roll up the sleeves or tuck the trousers into a boot for “a little more shape at the bottom.”

Carolina Cucinelli, the co-president of Italian luxury label Brunello Cucinelli, conceded that an oversize suit could intimidate the uninitiated. But she encourages them to think outside of the box. Avoid stodgy formality by choosing a cheerful color like peach, an unexpected cargo trouser (like the Cucinelli ones below) or by using a bright sneaker and hoodie to “break up” the suit’s perceived stuffiness. Accessorize irreverently, counsels Ms. Morrison, especially when it comes to footwear. “Anything that has a bit of humor behind it works really well,” she said. Converse sneakers, beat-up loafers, chunky sandals and clogs all supply adequate flippancy. But don’t overthink it, Ms. Morrison cautioned. “Just throw it on. The less you style it, the more natural and inherently comfortable it’s going to look.” And feel, for that matter. You won’t even miss those sweats.

SUITABLE FOR LOUNGING

Generously tailored sets that are polished enough for the office and comfy enough for reclining

Blue and Breezy

Though the word “suiting” suggests a certain soberness, the robin-egg blue hue of this dramatically wide-legged linen set lends it cheerful irreverence. With a color this emphatic, you don’t want to overdo the styling: Wear this slouchy take with strappy sandals and a crisp white tee to make it feel effortless. Jacket, $1,590, Pants, $765, maxmara.com

The Big Beige

The balloon-like shape of these trousers is tamed by their cuffed hem and lightweight fabric, while the matching, sharply cut jacket offsets the pants’ volume to make this combo feel perfectly proportioned. Heels are always an option or take a cue from designer Stella McCartney’s lookbook and try it with laid-back sandals. Jacket, $1,650, Pants, $895, stellamccartney.com

Ample and Affordable

With an oversized, double-breasted blazer and drop-crotch, cropped pants, this highly designed and highly relaxed duo from fast-fashion mecca Cos won’t drain your savings. If you’re feeling smug about how economical you are, don’t blow it by splurging on those Prada flats you’ve been eyeing (though they would look great with this). Jacket, $250, Pants, $135, cosstores.com

Elongated in Eggshell

This ivory tux is slim through the body for a flattering fit, yet has long, exaggerated sleeves and pant legs. The cut is meant to show just a glimpse of fingertips and pool stylishly around your shoes, conveying a chic nonchalance (an effect slightly ruined if you trip on your pant hem, so don’t race about). Pair with sparkly jewelry for a long-awaited (but still socially distant) evening out. Marina Moscone Jacket, $2,250, saksfifthavenue.com; Pants, $990, marinamoscone.com

Saturday Sprezzatura

Brunello Cucinelli’s grey linen cargo suit uses a skinny rope belt to cinch the jacket’s waist and balance masculine tailoring with a delicate hint of femininity. The trousers’ sash-like belt and cargo pockets save the suit from trafficking in excessive elegance. Pair it with sneakers and be unapologetically best-dressed at your weekend picnic. Jacket, $4,495, Pants, $1,675, Brunello Cucinelli, 212-334-1010

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