The comedian eats out at 670 Grams, run by rising-star chef Kray Treadwell, where carrots inspire joy and handbags get their own seat

“I thought sweetbread was just bread that’s sweet,” admits comedian Joe Lycett, holding up a morsel of Kray FC, veal glands plucked from a bucket decorated to look like the Colonel’s famous fried chicken tub. The snack, a new version of one of chef Kray Treadwell’s signature dishes, is golden and crisp, gently spiked with fermented hot sauce, zhooshed with garlic emulsion and bedazzled with tiny gleaming globes of oscietra caviar.

We’re side by side in Bodhi Boys, the pre-dinner lounge beneath restaurant 670 Grams, and I encourage Joe to shove the meat in his gob and trust the process. He needs little encouragement and I make fast work of my veggie version, a mouthful of fried cauliflower.

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