In 2017, big-wave surfer Andrew Cotton suffered what could have been a potential career-ending and life-changing injury after breaking his back during a wipeout in Nazaré, Portugal. Three years later he returned to the same spot to redeem himself and achieve his dream of surfing one of the biggest waves ever. The 37-year-old professional surfer took time to speak to the Guardian to talk through his injury, recovery and journey back to the top.

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