This temple to fire and smoke puts subtle flavours first, offering far more than just ‘dude food’
Acme Fire Cult, Abbot Street, London E8 3DP. Snacks and small plates £3-£9, large plates £14-£24, dessert £6, wines from £31, beers £5-£6
When chefs Andrew Clarke and Daniel Watkins announced their latest venture together, in London’s Dalston, it was described as: “More than just a restaurant.” Really? What is it then? An amusement park? A fetish club? A branch of Ikea? One of those might prove handy. “It’s a cult.” Oh my. In fairness, if you were hunting for a London cook to head up a raging, devoted religious movement, Clarke would fit the bill. He has a foot-long beard that can house small mammals or be plaited into viable rope, and so many tattoos that he’s become a walking secular challenger to the Sistine Chapel ceiling.
