ALL GLOW Turmeric gives this vegan soup a luminous golden color.

Photo: CHELSIE CRAIG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

SOMEHOW unassuming cauliflower has become a celebrity vegetable. Darling of the ketogenic diet, applauded for its versatility, it’s called on as a substitute for everything from rice to chicken wings. I’m not here to push cauliflower pizza crust as a replacement for the real thing, but I’m as susceptible as anyone to the charms of the ubiquitous brassica.

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Cauliflower is a chameleon ingredient, readily absorbing other flavors. And because of its high water content (around 90%), it lends itself especially well to blending in a soup. In the recipe at right, kombu adds salinity and depth, providing the backbone for a vegan stock. Bolstered by crunchy, savory croutons, showered in Vitamin B-rich nutritional yeast and fresh herbs, it’s nourishing yet light. For added heat, I love drizzling on some Chinese chile crisp. A dollop of crème fraîche or a non-dairy substitute also plays nicely here.

This soup is a staple in my home, subject to endless riffing. I’ve swapped in steamed clams for the croutons, which makes sense since the blended cauliflower has a chowderlike texture. In the winter, I’ve added sauerkraut to the soup ahead of blending for a hint of tang. But I never leave out the turmeric, which imparts a comforting, earthy note as well as a vivid golden hue. Like cauliflower itself, that color seems to go with just about everything.

CHELSIE CRAIG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES, PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

Ingredients

  • 7 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 5 cloves garlic, sliced, plus 1 clove, grated
  • ¼ teaspoon chile flakes
  • 2 teaspoons turmeric
  • 1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets
  • 8 cups water
  • 1 (4-inch) square kombu
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon ponzu
  • 6 slices country bread, torn in bite-size pieces
  • 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon nutritional yeast
  • Mint or cilantro sprigs
  • Chile crisp (optional)

Directions

  1. In a large pot, heat 4 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add onions, season with salt, and sauté until translucent, 4 minutes. Add sliced garlic, chile flakes and turmeric, and sauté until fragrant, 1 minute. Add cauliflower, water and kombu. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until cauliflower is fork-tender, 5 minutes. Stir in soy sauce and ponzu. Discard kombu.
  2. Working in two batches, carefully ladle soup into a blender and purée until smooth. Return soup to pot. Season with salt and pepper.
  3. Make the croutons: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. On a baking sheet, combine bread, remaining oil, grated garlic and nutritional yeast. Season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.
  4. Ladle soup into bowls. Drizzle on chile crisp, if you like. Top with croutons and fresh herbs.

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