IT was big in the Middle Ages – and now mead is back after a millennium in the culinary wilderness.
A thirst for craft booze, the popularity of TV’s Game Of Thrones and the simple Paleo diet trend have all combined to resurrect the ancient honey and water drink.
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Until recently it was purely the preserve of battle re-enactment enthusiasts, yet mead is now cool again.
The earliest traces of the tipple were found in a 9,000-year-old Chinese Neolithic vase, so it’s about as traditional as it gets.
The drink played a big part in Anglo Saxon and Celt culture, too. Viking mythology held that it was a gift from the gods.
It declined here with the 1066 Norman invasion introducing cider and wine.
But the ancient nectar, which was often drunk by newlyweds on honeymoon, has now returned and there is a huge range of types, from still to sparkling and sweet to sharp.
Unlike many other drinks, there is no set recipe for mead. Traditionally it was made by beekeepers, who ferment honey in water, but some meaderies use white sugar in place of honey.
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Traditional meads tend to be favoured by an older, geekier crowd. Real ale types. Good sorts. Session meads are lighter and marketed like craft beers towards younger boozers.
Most producers have seen increased sales in the past two years, possibly due to people exploring different types of booze while pubs were shut in lockdown.
I wanted to get some mead for my honeymoon 20 years ago, but it was nigh on impossible. But now we’re spoilt for choice.
So could this really be the next big thing? I couldn’t wait to find out.
Stoneforge Mead, £18.75, 6 x 330ml bottles, 5% ABV
SPARKLING mead made with raw honey, yeast and water, this one looks just like a bottle of beer.
The name Stoneforge is reminiscent of a Seventies heavy metal band.
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Nice liquid, though, much like a sweet cider. It’s crisp and refreshing.
VERDICT: Stoneforge would be good as an accompaniment to a pudding.
Afon Mel Sparkling Mead Moon Juice, £2.95, 330ml, 5% ABV
TECHNICALLY a cyser – a blend of cider and mead – Moon Juice tastes of apples and honey.
This mead would be just epic in summer served ice cold, with ice cubes in a glass that has been chilled in a freezer.
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VERDICT: Good with piping hot apple crumble and clotted cream.
The Rookery Spruce Mead, £25, 70cl, 17% ABV
PREMIUM presentation – it looks like a bottle of Scotch and the taste is reminiscent of a good, sweet sherry.
Made with spruce tips and packing quite a punch at 17% ABV.
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VERDICT: I can see my mum and mother-in-law getting stuck right in to this gear.
Gosnells Hopped Sparkling Mead, £28, 12 x 330ml cans, 4% ABV
MADE from water, honey and New World hops, it is extremely quaffable and tastes just like a lager top (lager with a dash of lemonade), one of my all-time favourite tipples.
VERDICT: This would be great with a hot curry or could work as a hangover cure – it would soon have you back on your feet.
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Wye Valley Honey & Rhubarb Sparkling Mead, £3.50, 330ml bottle, 4% ABV
HAS a wonderful pink colour. It is made from honey and rhubarb juice and I’ve never tasted anything like it.
The sourness that can make rhubarb unpleasant is masked by the honey, so you can savour the wonderful, delicate notes of rhubarb.
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About as British as it gets.
VERDICT: A knockout with bangers and mash.
Kinsale Wild Red Mead, £25, 70cl, 11% ABV
A PLEASINGLY fruity concoction with dark cherry, blackcurrants and pure honey, it is bursting with zesty acidity that counteracts its sweetness.
Very sippable Ribena for grown-ups, basically.
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VERDICT: A small glug in a glass of prosecco, Champagne or English fizz would hit the spot.
Lyme Bay Black Cherry, £9.99, 75cl, 11% ABV
THIS is delicious, but then it’s made with honey and black cherries, and I’m a sucker for black cherries.
It shows how well mead can take other flavours. A perfect combination.
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VERDICT: With a bit of fizzy water this would make a fine aperitif.
Great for a burst of cherry flavour in cooking, too – put a splash in the gravy for the Sunday roast.
Afon Mel Traditional Heather Mead, £25, 75cl, 13% ABV
LOOKS more like a bottle of wine but tastes more like tawny port.
Made with heather honey by beekeepers, it has an intensely sweet flavour but is not at all unpleasant.
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VERDICT: A mead that goes very well with cheese, strawberries and cream or as the secret ingredient in a hot toddy.
Gosnells Citra Sea Sparkling Mead, £28, 12 x 330ml cans, 4% ABV
MADE from honey, lemon, salt, water, hops and tarragon.
The addition of hops takes this towards lager territory – light, fizzy and refreshing. I like it and think wifey would too.
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VERDICT: This one would be great on a picnic, served like a Pimm’s with a chunk of cucumber and some fresh minty sprigs.
Wye Valley Hive Mind Honey Beer Golden Hour, £2.50, 330ml, 4.5% ABV
A “HONEY ale” that comes in a cute little brown bottle like the one my grandad used to drink from while watching Match Of The Day with me.
Made from malted barley, heather honey, hops and yeast, it was the least sweet of all the meads I tried.
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Full of malt and hoppy flavours. Very warming and pleasing.
VERDICT: One for the footie.
Lindisfarne Spiced Mead, £10.49, 70cl, 14.5% ABV
LINDISFARNE were a Seventies band whose style was a unique blend of rock and folk.
This bottle is a unique blend too – of mead and spices blended with herbs and fermented grape juice.
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And the tipple tastes just like mince pies.
Whatever next?
VERDICT: Choose this as a real winter warmer.
Lancashire Mead Company Jarl’s Mead, £25, 70cl, 14.5% ABV
THIS has the snazziest presentation of the bunch, like a huge bottle of perfume.
The taste is reminiscent of sherry and the chilli flavour works surprisingly well and is not too overpowering.
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VERDICT: Would be a great ingredient in salad dressing or glaze for ham.
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