Our cooks say you can get much of the effect that meat brings to a dish by using seitan, tempeh, tofu and TVP. Or move away from meat substitutes entirely and explore the natural proteins in pulses and legumes
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What are the best vegan proteins, and how should I use them?
Rachel, Sheffield
Protein remains the part of the plant-based diet that non-vegans seem most sceptical about, despite there being multiple good sources, from pulses, quinoa, chia seeds and nuts to tempeh, and even some veg, such as broccoli and sprouts. As Richard Makin, AKA the School Night Vegan, puts it, there are “three tiers” to consider: “You’ve got plants [legumes, beans, lentils], minorly processed things such as tofu and seitan, then really processed things such as plant-based meat substitutes.” I’m sure you’ve got the first tier covered, Rachel, and you need only visit the frozen aisle at the supermarket for tier three, so let’s look at the tofus, seitans and tempehs of this world – after all, they make for the interesting cooking.
For Max La Manna, author of You Can Cook This! (out in March), tofu is king: “There are all sorts of varieties, which cover everything from breakfast to pudding.” Firm tofu is “probably the easiest to work with”, says chef Alexis Gauthier, making it a good starting point. At his London restaurant 123V, Gauthier finely chops it “to create a ‘crab’ meat texture for maki rolls”. Makin, meanwhile, marinades shaved tofu in dark soy sauce and spices, then grills it for doner “meat”. La Manna’s go-to is butter “chicken”, which involves tossing torn, pressed tofu in olive oil and cornstarch, and baking it at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 for 15 minutes; for the sauce, he sautes onion, ginger and garlic in vegan butter, adds spices (garam masala, curry leaves, ground coriander, paprika), coconut milk and tomato paste, and simmers for 10 minutes. “Add the baked tofu for the last few minutes, toss and serve with rice.”
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