A YEAR AGO,Donny Sirisavath’s Khao Noodle Shop in Dallas was humming, garnering awards and acclaim. He was planning an expansion. Now, that’s off. “Thankfully, we hadn’t signed the lease,” he said. Yet even with revenue down 80% compared with this time last year, Mr. Sirisavath continues to forge ahead and find inspiration, with expanded outdoor seating at the restaurant and a new pop-up series in the works.
He’s working around the clock, with less time than ever to refuel at home. When he does, he’ll often make this cabbage stir-fry. A 20-minute, two-step recipe, his final Slow Food Fast contribution is also deeply satisfying, with layers of umami flavor thanks to leeks, oyster sauce and soy sauce. As the succulent cabbage leaves cook, they caramelize in the pan, turning meaty and sweet.
It’s a great way to showcase cabbage, a real kitchen workhorse: affordable, available year-round, a shelf-life all-star and versatile, too. This recipe permits a broad range when it comes to cooking time; stir-fry the cabbage to your own taste. “I cook it until it wilts,” Mr. Sirisavath said. “If you want it sweeter and softer, keep cooking it down.”
When he has more time, he makes this as part of a larger spread. These days, for quick comfort, the chef serves the stir-fry simply, over rice, with a garnish of sliced scallions. Either way, it brings him comfort. “I always ate this as a kid when I was sick and needed to feel better. Mom would serve it with a pickled egg, greens and rice porridge,” he said. “So good.”
