The Ultimate Guide to Ski Style

During this midcentury era, designers like Christian Dior and Emilio Pucci introduced sport lines for their jet-set clients, while now-classic ski labels like Obermeyer and Bogner took off. Maria Bogner (wife to Olympics skier Willy Bogner, who founded the brand) took issue with existing bulky alpine design and created the first stretch ski-pant in 1948, a style the Bogner catalog still features today.

In the ’70s and ’80s, silhouettes slimmed down even further, a movement led by racing brands like Spyder, launched in 1978. Boot-cut pants and neon colors glided into the on-slope mix. In the rebellious ’90s, splatter prints were popular, and the early 2000s welcomed the baggy, oversize look favored by snowboarders.

Today, anything goes. Brands like Perfect Moment offer retro, tightfitting ski pants with padded racing knees, while environmentally conscious companies like Helly Hansen and Patagonia are investing in chemical-free production and recycled fabrics.

Don’t hesitate to aspire to high-altitude style. Skiing culture promotes a certain fashion awareness, argued Bogner’s design director Andreas Baumgärtner: “It’s a whole lifestyle. You spend all your time in this one outfit, enjoying your surroundings. It’s not only about the sport.”

2. What makes for a warm jacket? Is it about the cut? The fabric? Something else?

Warmth is in the details, not a jacket’s weight. Bogner’s Mr. Baumgärtner said a snug-fitting collar, cuffs and hem will block wind and snow. Henri Rivers, president of the National Brotherhood of Skiers, advised insulating a Gore-Tex shell with long underwear and a quilted midlayer. When ordering online, know that ski sizing can be quirky: Refer to brands’ individual size charts. Below, some of this winter’s standouts.

FOR MEN

From left: For those who run hot For ventilation, “You need pit zips to release heat,” said 31-year-old pro skier Lexi du Pont. This style’s got ’em. Jacket, $549, eddiebauer.com. For off-piste adventurers, a neon color ensures that you won’t be confused with rocks or trees in the backcountry. Jacket, $479, obermeyer.com. For the mindful downhiller, this style zips up to your goggles and is made from a waterproof material devoid of harsh chemicals. Jacket, $750, hellyhansen.com.

FOR WOMEN

From left: For tactile techies, a fuzzy neck panel and thumbhole cuffs ensure a soft and cozy skin-feel for a long day on the hill. Jacket, $1,550, bogner.com. For disruptor types, Halfdays is a rare women’s-only sport brand. Designed by a female Olympian, it’s equal parts chic and tough. Jacket, $345, halfdays.com. For a smarter snow bunny, the belted waist blocks wind and snow while the chevron stripe nods to skiing’s 1970s glory days. Jacket, $1,150, perfectmoment.com.

3. I hate how my ski pants puddle around the boot. Can I hem them or will it ruin their ‘waterproofness’?

Rainy Pass Repair in Seattle hems hundreds of ski pants a year. “We joke that the model for some of these pants must be a 6-foot-6 Norwegian,” said general manager Kipp Godfrey. Here, his tips for a perfect alteration:

Leave it to the professionals—they have the tools to properly seal the seams and ensure the pants stay waterproof.

When being measured, assume a crouched, athletic position so the knee darts and the hem fall in the correct place.

Start with pants that fit in the waist and hips. It’s much easier (and cheaper) to hem pants than to take in a waistband.

No two brands design and size the same, so refer to each individual brands’ sizing charts. “We get so many alterations from guys who have this innate assumption that a medium is just a medium.”

4. I’m looking for vintage ski-style inspo. Which movies should I watch?

‘Charade’ (1963) Audrey Hepburn plays Regina “Reggie” Lampert in a matching hat and pullover jacket, and sage-green stretch ski pants.

‘Downhill Racer’ (1969) Robert Redford as David Chappellet in his Team USA Olympics uniform of a white turtleneck and navy wool sweater with a red racing stripe.

‘Any Snow Any Mountain’ (1971) A doc featuring a red jacket and striped ski pants.

‘The Spy Who Loved Me’ (1977) Roger Moore as James Bond in a sunshine-yellow one-piece ski suit paired with red hat, boots and backpack.

5. Ski stuff is expensive and I only hit the slopes a couple of times a year. Is it OK to buy used ski gear? Is there a site where I can find good deals?

You bet. Plenty of vintage and gently used treasures can be scored on eBay. If you find the abundance of ski wares there too daunting, click over to one of the many sites that offer steep discounts on unused styles from past seasons. Check out evo.com, peterglenn.com or backcountry.com’s “clearance racks” for some serious steals.

6. Most of the chalets are closed this season and I have nowhere to stash my lunch—or my après-ski ensemble. What’s the best lightweight backpack?

We like the Patagonia SnowDrifter 20L ($149, patagonia.com). At just 2 pounds, it’s secured by buckles at the sternum and waist and boasts pockets on the straps for easy access to your phone and a snack.

7. Everyone wears helmets now. Is it worth investing in a cute hat if I don’t need it for actual skiing?

Yes. When you remove your helmet you’ll inevitably unveil that classic embarrassment—helmet hair. A knit cap can quickly conceal it. Plus, once off the slopes and helmetless, you’ll want to keep warm après. “If you don’t want to look like a tourist,” said Bogner’s Mr. Baumgärtner, “you need the right hat.”

8. Mittens or gloves?

Why choose when you could wear both? These “lobster claws” offer the dexterity of a glove and almost as much warmth as a mitten, said Drew Eakins, marketing manager for Hestra Gloves. Mittens, $155, hestragloves.com

9. My closet is a sea of black and I like it that way. Is there a persuasive reason I should abandon my sartorial ethos and wear a neon ski outfit?

Electric hues guarantee visibility (a safety concern) and telegraph style. Bold patterns and colors help your buddies find you in the lift line and ensure those who take a serious tumble won’t blend in with rocks or trees and can be easily spotted by rescuers. Plus, “It brightens the mood,” said Jane Gottschalk, creative director of activewear brand Perfect Moment. “Now, when everything is slightly depressing, it’s a little bit of daydreaming.”

10. I’m a fashion plate—everyone says so—and I noticed that my favorite brands like Fendi and Louis Vuitton make glam ski clothes. Will they perform like my tried-and-true Helly Hansen gear or are they for city folk interested in alpine cosplay?

Cosplay mainly. High-fashion ski gear is for sitting pretty and sipping hot toddies by the fire pit, not…skiing.

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