A chance to feast on Spanish food and soak up the fantasy of a louche Granada – all in a pub outside Norwich. By Jay Rayner

Suffield Arms, 393 Station Road, Lower Street, Norwich NR11 8UE (01263 586858). Small plates £4-£12, cured meats £12-£22, large plates £13-£25, desserts £7, wines from £27

Hanging on the wall in the deep-varnished, oak-panelled stairwell at the Suffield Arms is a red neon sign which reads “Beer Girls Porn” with a blue neon arrow pointing to the ground floor. It is not entirely inaccurate. For all the restaurant trappings, this place still displays elements of pub. There is a public bar at the front with a pool table, a big screen TV and a number of ales on tap, many of them from local breweries like Lacons and Woodforde’s. Both genders are represented among the clientele, so in the very loosest sense of the sign, I suppose – and in a less than obliging manner – that’s the second word dealt with.

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