Spiced with cardamom, this fragrant, colourful rice dish was handed down to Maryam Hanifi by her mother and grandmother

Hosting dinner events was an essential part of our household when I was a young. I grew up in Kandahar city in a predominantly Pashtun region of Afghanistan. My paternal grandparents were from tribal Pashtun areas in Afghanistan, and their families spread around the country. My mother’s side was more of a mix and my maternal grandmother was Iranian-born and raised in Tehran, so I really grew up with many cultures.

It was expected that women would cook while living in their parents’ house, and it was considered obligatory in preparation for marriage. My father was a doctor, so many people knew him and would unexpectedly visit our house for dinner gatherings. I remember my mother gladly accepting any guests and cooking up a storm for them.

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