Serving good things all day long, this smart Manchester canteen is a welcome haven for one and all

Medlock Canteen, 5 Owen Street, Manchester M15 4YB (0161 723 3394). Starters £4-£13, mains £10-£45, desserts £8-£12, wines (500ml) from £18

Towards the bottom of the main course options at Medlock Canteen in Manchester is a dish that reads “staff dinner (limited availability)”. It costs £10. I ask our waiter what it is. “Exactly what it sounds like,” Tom says, cheerily. “The staff food is so much better here than I’m used to. Usually, it’s chicken nuggets. Not here. Today it was a pea risotto. We’ve had leek and bacon pie, and a cottage pie. It’s great.” They just happen to make enough to sell a few portions to the punters, too, though today they’ve already run out. No worries. There are other things worth ordering.

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