Release your inner cave-dweller at this great Korean barbecue diner

Jinseon Korean BBQ Restaurant, Unit 5 Priory Place, Fairfax Street, Coventry CV1 5SQ. Small plates £6.55-£12.55, BBQ items £8.95-£11.95, rice and noodle dishes £11.95-£13.55, dessert £6.95, sake and rice wine £9.50 for 125ml

Modern food preparation technology is to be celebrated: it’s cleaner, more energy efficient and just simpler to use than the old ways. The thing is, it’s not very romantic. No one will ever write emotionally dense prose about the functioning of a 1200-watt convection oven. They might write something full of knowing bathos, but not a sentence to make the heart flutter. Whereas the steel cauldron of glowing coals, brought to our table at Jinseon Korean BBQ Restaurant in Coventry, is the very stuff of legend. By which I mean Norse legend full of vainglorious, blood-smeared men hunkering down by the fire in the night-dark forest clearing, to cook that day’s hunt while telling each other stories of their bravery. As the stocky man dressed in ash-smudged black heaves that cauldron into its resting place, sparks fly and ribbons of white smoke pirouette heavenwards. We feel the heat on our cheeks and our forearms and upon our very cave-dweller souls.

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