Despite its name, there’s nothing humble about this superb Soho yakitori chicken shop
Humble Chicken, 54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SJ (humblechickenuk.com). Yakitori £3-£4.80, other dishes £5-£16, desserts £6-£8.50, wines from £30
Faced by the menu at Humble Chicken, it’s difficult to remain fully adult. One item is listed as “Inner Thigh”. Would you like some inner thigh? Always, love. Always. It adds a special charge to the accompanying offer of breast, tail and soft knee. Would you like some soft knee to go with your inner thigh? Oh, behave. Well, I’m sorry. I can’t behave. I want it all. For while the menu brings out the sniggering schoolboy in me, it is also deadly serious. Seated at the counter of what was once the original outpost of tapas maestros Barrafina in London’s Soho, I watch head chef Angelo Sato tend his grill, hachimaki headband in place. I feel the heart-fluttering joy that comes with the insufferably smug knowledge that I am in exactly the right place.
