How to maintain a healthy scalp

A healthy skin care routine typically involves cleansing, wearing SPF and moisturizing, but there may be one critically important area of the skin you’re overlooking: your scalp. Scalp care is essential for hair health, the same way good soil is essential for a flourishing garden.

“A clear, clean, balanced scalp is going to be the optimal environment for growing healthy hair,” says Dr. Craig Ziering, a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and hair transplant surgeon in California. Hair, which is primarily built from protein cells, grows from follicles located in the skin, according to Ziering. “The root of the hair, what’s below the skin, is where all the activation in the cells takes place,” says Ziering. The health of the scalp, therefore, either promotes or deters hair health and hair growth. “A healthy scalp is going to give you new growth, stronger, shinier and thicker hair and a well-balanced scalp microbiome, will encourage less breakage and less hair loss,” he says. 

We spoke to experts about the best scalp care products, and their importance for healthy hair. 

SKIP AHEAD The best products for scalp health in 2023 | Why is scalp health important? | How to shop for scalp care products 

For scalp issues that are persistent or recurring (more on that below), the experts we spoke with — including a trichologist specializing in natural hair textures, dermatologists, and a hair restoration expert — recommend seeing a specialist who can devise a personalized treatment plan. For at-home scalp treatments, there are a few key things to keep in mind: 

• Product type: At-home scalp treatments can be roughly categorized by one of two functions: hydrating and clarifying. “The point of a clarifier is to act like a toner on the scalp. It helps even out the pH of your scalp and gently exfoliates, keeping the pores open so that the follicles can grow,” says Dr. Margarita Lolis, a board-certified dermatologist at Skin and Laser Surgery Specialists, a division of Schweiger Dermatology Group, in Hackensack, New Jersey. Hydrators, meanwhile, work to add moisture to the scalp to soothe irritation and prevent overdrying and itching. 
• Ingredients: Within each category, experts recommend looking for certain ingredients. To moisturize your scalp, look for hydrating ingredients like almond oil, shea butter, argan oil, and jojoba oil. For a flaky scalp, meanwhile, you want to look for things that will soften and break down the outer layer of the skin to help separate the flakes from your scalp, says Afope Atoyebi, a certified trichologist, based in the UK, who specializes in natural hair textures. In this category, look for exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid, salicylic acid, urea, sea salt, and fruit enzymes. Finally, if you’re dealing with dandruff, scalp treatments with anti-fungal ingredients are key. (Dandruff is caused by a yeast-like fungus that feeds on the oils on your scalp, according to the Mayo Clinic.) Look for ingredients like ketoconazole, piroctone olamine, tea tree oil, zinc pyrithione and selenium sulfide. 
• Ingredients to avoid: Just like in skin care products, there are certain ingredients experts recommend avoiding. “Sulfates, like sodium lauryl sulfate, for example, are surfactants basically made to cleanse the hair,” says Dr. Azza Halim, a board-certified physician in Boca Raton, Florida, who specializes in topical treatments, including those for the scalp. “But we know they are very drying and can be irritants that cause inflammation. Besides increasing sensitivity, they can make other conditions like eczema, contact dermatitis, and rosacea worse.” Other ingredients to avoid include parabens and formaldehyde, which are both irritants, and in the case of the latter, carcinogenic. 

To address a variety of scalp concerns — including itchiness,  flaking and excess oil — we asked scalp experts for their favorite at home treatments. Before buying, however, it may be worth consulting an expert to confirm the root cause of any scalp issues you’re dealing with, which may not always be obvious, says Atoyebi. For example, “a lot of people, especially within the textured hair community, tend to assume that if they have a flaky scalp, it’s because their scalp is dry,” she says. “More often than not, it’s actually because their scalp has excessive buildup of sebum, which is the complete opposite.” Your hairstylist or dermatologist can help point you in the right direction. Once you’re ready to shop, here are the best at-home scalp treatments to address a range of concerns, recommended by our experts: 

Philip Kingsley Flaky Scalp Mask

The Philip Kingsley Flaky Scalp Mask is a favorite of Atoyebi’s: “It’s really great for soothing and relieving the discomfort that comes with flaking,” she says. Salicylic acid works to loosen flakes, piroctone olamine works to reduce fungal growth (a key contributor to dandruff), plus it has hydrating ingredients including shea butter and squalane, which work to soothe irritation, according to the brand. Atoyebi also particularly likes the packaging. “The way the tube is set up with a little tiny nozzle helps the product work around your scalp quite easily as opposed to a tub you have to dip your fingers in,” she says. “You can apply it directly onto your scalp in little rows.” 

Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

Dandruff shampoos are typically formulated to be “more aggressive” than a regular clarifying shampoo, says Atoyebi. If you deal with dandruff, she recommends Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. It’s formulated with antifungal ketoconazole, according to the brand, which makes it “extremely effective, especially for people who have chronic or aggressive flaking,” says Atoyebi. She also recommends it for those dealing with psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis on the scalp. 

Ouai Scalp Serum

When it comes to scalp serums and leave-in products you massage into your follicles, Lolis likes the Ouai Scalp Serum. It has several plant extracts, including ginseng and chaga mushroom to boost hydration, red clover flower extract, a potential anti-inflammatory agent, and peptides to support fuller, thicker hair, according to the brand. “It improves dryness and itchiness and makes your scalp feel nice and minty after application,” says Lolis says. 

Dr. Barbara Sturm Balancing Scalp Serum

Lolis also recommends the Dr. Barbara Sturm Balancing Scalp Serum, which has soothing lavender and green algae to reduce scalp irritation. It’s relatively easy to add to your existing hair care routine since you can apply it directly to the scalp on wet or dry hair and there’s no need to rinse. Lolis also likes that this formula has hyaluronic acid and vitamin BF, which “protect the hair and scalp from UV damage, pollution and heat,” she says.  

Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt

To help remove buildup, Ziering likes the Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt. “It works well if you have an oily scalp and you need it to be rebalanced or for itching and irritation,” he says. Use it once weekly in lieu of shampoo to detox the scalp, according to the brand.  

Virtue Exfoliating Scalp Treatment

If you prefer a detoxifying scalp treatment without so much grittiness, Ziering also recommends the Virtue Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, which lifts and removes dirt and oil from the scalp and also  exfoliates with “rice beads” and fruit enzymes. “It has a good combination of oils, especially jojoba oil, so that you’re not overly stripping the scalp,” Ziering says. “You want to restore the moisture.” Use it once weekly in place of your usual conditioning treatment, massaging into the scalp before rinsing.

Kiehl’s Amino Acid Scalp Scrub Detox Treatment

Formulated with sea salt to remove buildup, Ziering also likes this Kiehl’s scalp scrub. “It has salicylic acid, which is good for inflammation and flaking,” he says. It’s also formulated with amino acids, which can prevent over drying by helping the scalp retain moisture, according to the brand. Use in place of shampoo once weekly. 

Jupiter Purifying Mask

Lolis recommends the mousse-like Jupiter Purifying mask for a once weekly treatment. Formulated with hydrating argan oil and exfoliating volcanic ash, it’s particularly good for those with an oily scalp, she says. Massage into the roots of damp hair and let it sit for five minutes before shampooing and conditioning. 

Coola Scalp and Hair Mist Organic Sunscreen SPF 30

Sunscreen is just as important for your scalp as it is for the rest of your skin. Lolis recommends adding an SPF formula specifically designed for the scalp to prevent damage from UV rays and oxidative stress. She likes this Coola SPF 30, which you can spray directly onto your scalp and hairline via a targeted nozzle. (Mist it over hair to prevent fading on color treated hair, according to the brand.) 

Supergoop Poof 100% Mineral Part Powder SPF 35

If your hair tends to be greasier, you might prefer a powdered SPF. In that case, Lolis also likes Supergoop Poof 100% Mineral Part Powder SPF 35. Formulated with zinc oxide (an active ingredient found in mineral sunscreens) to protect against UV damage, the powdered formula also doubles as a dry shampoo, in my experience. 

Tangle Teezer The Scalp Exfoliator and Massager

In addition to scalp-friendly products, regular scalp stimulation can help support healthy hair, according to experts. Atoyebi says you can do this with your fingers or with a dedicated scalp brush or massager — she likes Tangle Teezer’s two-in-one scalp exfoliator and massager. It has a two-tier bristle design: its long flexible bristles  exfoliate the scalp and remove flakes, while its shorter firmer bristles stimulate circulation and boost blood flow to the scalp, according to the brand. You can use it in or out of the shower and with or without product. 

Manta Scalp Brush

This brush is bendy, and has bristles that won’t snag your hair, which is key, and also mold to the shape of your scalp, according to Lolis. It’s suitable for all hair types, from fine to coily, and you can even use it if you wear extensions, according to the brand. 

It’s often said that healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp, and this couldn’t be more true according to the experts we spoke with. “The scalp feeds the hair follicles and the hair follicles generate the hair. So when the skin on the scalp is inflamed or infected, this can affect these hair follicles,” says Arora. This can lead to everything from styling concerns like dullness and oiliness to hair loss. “Recognizing signs of scalp disease early and getting treatment is definitely important,” says Arora. 

Maintaining a healthy scalp can also be an important part of our overall social and emotional wellbeing, says Atoyebi. “Many scalp conditions, aside from the aesthetic impact that they have,  can also have psychosocial impacts — they can affect your comfort and confidence,” she says. 

Signs of an unhealthy scalp can include: 

• Flakes
• Itchiness
• Tenderness or sensitivity
• Burning sensation
• Patchy or generalized redness
• Pimples, or excessive oiliness
• Thinning hair 

Some scalp conditions require expert diagnosis and treatment. “If symptoms have been persistent for more than two or three weeks, or it’s a ‘hey, this is the fourth time I’ve had it this month,’ kind of issue,” over-the-counter treatments might not do the trick, says Arora. If you’re dealing with persistent redness, flakiness, irritation, or an abnormal level of shedding, talk to an expert. 

The experts we spoke with emphasized that there’s no one-size-fits-all scalp care routine. To find the best products to support your individual scalp health, start with these two steps: 

• Identify your scalp concerns. “The best place to start is always identifying the scalp issue that you are trying to address. What is the objective that you are trying to achieve with any particular scalp product?” says Atoyebi. Does your scalp feel sensitive when you brush your hair? Are you noticing pimples? Are you dealing with flakes? Pinpointing your scalp symptoms is step one. 
• Identify the root cause of the issue. Next, you’ll need to identify the cause of those symptoms in order to pick the appropriate treatment. It’s not always obvious. If you’re dealing with pimples on your scalp, for example, it could be due to a build up of oil and bacteria and you’d want to look for a product with salicylic acid, says Dr. Navin Arora, board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor at the Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. It could also be the result of a fungal infection, or more persistent bacterial infection of the hair follicles that requires expert diagnosis and treatment, he says. Similarly, flakes may be the result of  dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis. They could also be the cause of product buildup, which is often the case in the textured hair community, says Atoyebi. “If that’s the case, I wouldn’t then recommend you going to buy a scalp oil treatment to apply onto your scalp to help with the ‘dry’ flakes,” she says. This is where a brief check in with your hairstylist or dermatologist can be helpful. 

At Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest. 

• Afope Atoyebi is a certified trichologist based in the UK. She specializes in natural hair textures, addressing both the physical and social impacts of scalp issues with her treatments.  
• Dr. Margarita Lolisis a board-certified dermatologist at Skin and Laser Surgery Specialists, a division of Schweiger Dermatology Group in Hackensack, New Jersey. She specializes in noninvasive cosmetic treatments and skin cancer removal.  
• Dr. Navin Arora is a board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor at the Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. He is the founder of Borealis Dermatology in New York. 
• Dr. Azza Halim is a board-certified physician in Boca Raton, Florida. She specializes in laser treatments and minimally invasive aesthetic procedures. 
• Dr. Craig Ziering is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and hair transplant surgeon. 

Macaela MacKenzie is a journalist and former Glamour editor who has covered beauty and wellness treatments for over a decade. For this article, MacKenzie spoke to dermatologists, a hair restoration expert, and a trichologist specializing in natural textures about the importance of scalp health and the best products that will work for a variety of hair types and textures.

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Source: | This article originally belongs to Nbcnews.com