MUCH SMALLER than traditional ranges, countertop ovens are workhorses—or rather workponies. With “smart” functionality (and companion apps controlled via phones) and guided recipes, these devices are a little like having a highly responsive, deferential and no-attitude chef in the kitchen with you. Some actual chefs are big fans.
“Unless you’re a family of six to eight, you’re never going to be using all the space in a traditional oven,” said Ron Yan, a private chef in New York, who finds that compact countertop models typically cook items more quickly and more thoroughly than a full-size appliance.
