Heralded as the next step in food production, this practice is gaining ground in the US. But are they really a greener alternative to traditional farming?

At a hyper-controlled indoor farm in industrial South San Francisco, four robots named John, Paul, George and Ringo carefully transfer seedlings from barcoded trays into 15-plus foot towers that are then hung vertically inside a 4,800 sq ft grow room.

Inside the hygienic space, which is operated by the indoor farming company Plenty, there’s no soil, sunlight or tractors, but rows of hanging crops illuminated by colorful LED lights and carefully monitored by cameras, sensors and artificial intelligence. Once a tower is ready to be harvested, a balletic automated process reminiscent of a dry cleaner’s conveyor belt begins.

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