Sustainable, fresh and offering huge portions… Soho’s new seafood place will soon have you hooked
The Seafood Bar, 77 Dean Street, London W1D 3SH (020 4525 0733). Starters £9.50-£12.50, mains £15.50-£32.50, platters £27.50-£49.50, desserts £6.95-£7.50, wines from £25
It starts badly; terribly, terribly badly. We order the calamari, a sizeable plateful at a sizeable price of £10.50. It is very much old school: a pile of those hefty rings of golden battered mature squid that the British came to associate with the sun-kissed exotica of 1980s Mediterranean holidays. Sangria, sunburn, the glamour of deep-fried calamari. I merely have to glance at them and soft waves of nostalgia wash over me. I can almost smell the Nivea After Sun.
