Supper is so sexy at this fine gastropub on the Highgate Road, you may feel you need to get a room…

The Bull and Last, 168 Highgate Road, London NW5 1QS (020 726 7 3641). Starters £4-£12, mains £10-£34, wines from £26

When Jay Rayner asked me to step in and take care of his beloved column for a week, it felt as if he’d given me the keys to his sports car or entrusted me to breastfeed his firstborn. The jammiest job in the business only requires the answer to one big question: which restaurant brings me joy?

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