This is the place to be for smoky grilled flavours and of course the dreamy custard tarts
Casa Madeira, 46b Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TL (020 7735 0592). Starters £4-£9.50, mains £7.50-£20.50, pastel de nata £1.50, wines from £14.99
Sometimes restaurants call to me. Sometimes I just don’t listen. Casa Madeira is one of those restaurants. I have driven past it hundreds of times. It is on my route home from the centre of London: south over Lambeth Bridge, right along Albert Embankment, and there it is tucked into the railway arches under the line from Waterloo. The pavement here, in the shadow of the MI6 building, edges a wide terrace given over to outside dining. Over the years I have glanced at the tables beneath the umbrellas as I have passed, at clusters of people leaning in over their plates, and thought that it looked like fun. I’ve thought I should go there. Then I haven’t gone there.
