Great seafood, cool white wine, expert cookery in a refreshing space… what’s not to love?
Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, 11-15 Swallow Street, London W1B 4DG (020 7734 4756). Starters £13.50-£24.50, mains £23.50-£56, desserts £8.75-£10.50, wines from £35.50
Looking up Swallow Street from a deserted Piccadilly, the current incarnation of Bentley’s presents as a warm, glowing pool of light amid the darkness. As we get closer, we can hear a babble of voices. I want mine to be a part of that babble, a murmur of basso profundo to bottom out the high notes. Happily, that’s about to happen. I have bagged a table and I did so courtesy of a cunning ruse. I texted the chef and asked for one.
