Want to move on from button mushrooms, but don’t know where to start? Here is how to store, select and prepare everything from porcini to portobello

Most of us know where we are with button mushrooms – they are inoffensive, bland and fairly sturdy. You can stick them in a stew or a tomato sauce, or fling them across the top of a pizza without worrying about how much cooking is required or how long they have been drying out in the fridge. But nobody gets excited about them.

“I haven’t cooked a button mushroom for a very long time,” says Jeremy Lee, chef proprietor at Quo Vadis and the author of Cooking: Simply and Well, For One or Many. “But they’re perfectly lovely – they’ll make you a decent omelette and they seem to be inextricably linked with the great British fry-up.”

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