This cheerful Cantonese diner is a delight, and the menu is worth exploring in depth

Roasta Preston, 43 Plungington Road, Preston PR1 7EP (01772 827 958). Most dishes £8-£12, sharing platters £12-£30. Unlicensed

The late, great foreign correspondent Nicholas Tomalin famously once said that, to achieve success in journalism, you needed “rat-like cunning, a plausible manner and a little literary ability”. Restaurant critics need a few other qualities: a rapacious appetite, broad tastes and a serviceable set of teeth. The latter have been a little challenging of late. Recently, on a trip to see my dentist to discuss a front crown that keeps unbonding, he told me he had taken to reading my reviews with trepidation. “I was certain one thing you ordered was going to take that tooth out,” he said.

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