Ievgen Klopotenko won Unesco recognition for Ukrainian borscht – one battle, he says, in a bigger campaign to revive traditional recipes

In a war, there are many different fronts, and many different forms of resistance. Ievgen Klopotenko, a Ukrainian chef, is fighting his war with soup.

In defiance of the Russian cruise missile and drone attacks that have hit Kyiv recently, Klopotenko, 35, was last week presiding over his bustling city centre restaurant. On the menu were dishes such as beetroot and herring salad with smoked pear from the Odesa region, venison from the Carpathians, and a dessert named “Kherson is Ukraine”.

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