Tucked away up in the rafters, this hidden gem in Nottingham reaches dizzying heights with its joyous Japanese food

Kushi-Ya, 1A Cannon Court, Long Row W, Nottingham NG1 6JE. No lunchtime bookings. Snacks £3.50, plates and skewers £5.50-£14, desserts £5-£7, wines from £24

It would be easy, for which read lazy, to describe Nottingham’s Kushi-Ya as a hidden gem. Granted, it’s very much tucked away. The first time I visited the site was virtually, courtesy of Google Street View. I clicked my way across a main road, past outposts of Maryland Chicken and Mega Munch, and found myself studying the digital vista of a hard-scrabble urban alleyway; the sort that might play host to fumbling couples who can’t quite wait to get indoors after the pubs kick out.

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