Starry metropolitan chef Nuno Mendes has taken his A-list cuisine to the Kent coast

The Rose, 91 High Street, Deal, Kent CT14 6ED (01304 389127). Snacks and starters £4-£12, mains £19-£25, desserts £6-£9, lunch menu, three courses £23, wines from £26

Sitting in the middle of the table at the Rose in Deal is a single food item to which the overused and often abused term “iconic” could reasonably be applied. Pinterest is stuffed full of artfully lit pictures of it. Reputable food mags have breathlessly carried the recipe so that those who haven’t been fortunate enough to eat one can try and fail to make it at home. When it first made its entrance on to London’s sweaty-palmed food scene, the best way to guarantee the right to try one for yourself was to be a hugely talented actor who had, at the very least, been nominated for an Oscar; that, or maybe a few Grammys, or a Bafta.

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