Rough-plaster walls, piped music and an irritating name can’t dull the zinginess of the cuisine
Editor’s note: we have decided that, while restaurants remain open, we will continue to review them
JAE at Untitled, 538 Kingsland Road, London E8 4AH (07841 022 924). All dishes £4-£12.50, beer £6, cocktails £9.50, wine from £36 a bottle
