Invest in yourself at the Palmerston in Edinburgh if you are banking on having a good time

The Palmerston, 1 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh EH12 5AF (0131 220 1794). Snacks and starters £4-£10, mains £17-£24, desserts £6, wines from £24

In the brutal depths of a cost-of-living crisis, when some people still have money for the cream on the top and far too many do not even have enough for the basics underneath, going for dinner in a space that was once a bank could be spun as brutally symbolic. Here is a former financial institution, still servicing those with enough filthy lucre to invest in a rich return, only in different ways. There’s a joke in here somewhere about pork-based restaurants trading mammon for gammon, but I do have my pride.

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