Its colourful origins are mysterious, but for centuries Italy has enjoyed this treat filled with ricotta, cream, candied fruit and nuts

There are, of course, legends about zuccotto, the dome-shaped, ricotta-filled sponge pudding. One is that Bernardo Buontalenti, the architect who designed ice houses for the Medici family, also designed for them a semifreddo pudding using a metal artillery helmet, or zuccotto, as a form. Another is that, because its shape and sponge (stained with alchermes liqueur) resemble an ecclesiastical zuccotto (scarlet skullcap), it was named after that. Or is it a sponge tribute to Florence’s duomo?

It hardly matters, even if nobody really believes it – the narrative is so attractive that it satisfies in any case. I do like the legend about Buontalenti, though: architect, theatrical designer, military engineer and the man credited with inventing Italian gelato. Where was he when he had the stroke of genius for using a metal helmet as a mould for a frozen cream pudding?

UK readers: click to buy these ingredients from Ocado

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