The food is terrific, but it is the story of care leaver Chef Tee’s Sugarcane London that’ll feed your soul
Sugarcane London, 517 Wandsworth Road, London SW8 4PA (020 7498 8758). Starters £4-£6, mains £8.50-£10, platters for two £30, desserts £5.50, wines from £20
Sugarcane London is a small, tidy Caribbean café on the Wandsworth Road serving, among other things, very good jerk chicken. The skin is crisped and blackened and has a sweet, aromatic warmth from an enthusiastic assault by a seasoning mix heavy with the wonder that is allspice. This is a restaurant review, so obviously we care about these things; the food matters and it will get its moment.
