A risotto-style pasta in a creamy, saffron-infused sauce and topped with spicy roast squash

When I was asked to look after this column while Meera Sodha takes a well-deserved break, I was both nervous (those are some big metaphorical shoes to fill) and excited, but I won’t pretend I wasn’t also slightly apprehensive of the fact that this is a vegan column. Not because I don’t love vegetables (I do!), but because I didn’t want to come across as disingenuous (let it be known that I’m very much an omnivore) and also because the idea of being limited by the ingredients I could use worried me. I’m happy to report, however, that this has been a welcome challenge and that, in the right circumstances, limitations can push the boundaries of creativity.

UK readers: click to buy these ingredients from Ocado

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